BEHIND THE LENS
THE COLOMBIAN AMAZON BY ALEJANDRA LOAIZA
Tell us briefly about this trip. What led you there?
I was there in January 2023. I had always dreamed of going to the Amazon to learn more about the culture and territories of my country; also because I had an image of this place in my mind: that it was inhospitable, hard to access, and mysterious. It scared me a little, but at the same time, I was curious to explore it.
A friend who had been there recently recommended that I stay in Mocagua, so that was my destination in the Amazon: a small hotel built and managed by the local community.
What was your first impression of the Amazon?
My first impression was that it was nothing like what I had imagined. Upon arriving in Leticia, I discovered a city with one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen, giant trees, and parrots flying around the central park… It seemed so magical and peaceful!
What’s the most beautiful thing about this place?
From Leticia, I went to Mocagua, 60 km away by boat. What I liked the most was the community. I didn’t want to do any activities that weren’t sustainable or that exploited the Amazon, and in this indigenous reserve, it was the community itself that proposed activities that respected the jungle and its animals.
Any interesting facts?
In the Mocagua community, one of the guides took us to visit the Maikuchiga Foundation, which protects the biodiversity of the jungle, mainly rescuing monkeys from illegal trafficking and allowing them to return to the wild and free life they deserve.
Learning about the work and effort of the foundation was an unforgettable experience, and I really liked it because, unlike popular visits to Monkey Island — where I haven’t been, but I heard that, for example, they encourage people to take photos with the animals — there, you are just a visitor and the animals are not there to entertain you, but to be respected.
How did you get there?
From Bogotá, I took a flight to Leticia, and from there, a boat to Mocagua.
Where to stay?
We stayed at the La Ceiba hotel, a warm, family-run hotel where María and Manuel welcomed us with a lot of love; they built it themselves and, along with the community, organize activities for visitors. The food is prepared with what they grow.
Any memories that come to mind when you think of this destination?
Whenever I think of the Amazon, I remember the peace you feel while walking through the jungle and the luck I had to hear the stories from our indigenous guide, who was around 80 years old. While talking about his adventures and the legends and mystery hidden in the jungle, he cleared the path with his machete.
Where can you see the best sunset?
From a boat on the river, at the water border between Peru and Colombia, while watching the dolphins surface and the river seems endless.
What was your favorite place?
Definitely going along the river, exploring different branches. I had the opportunity to go to Lake Tarapoto, where we swam… a pink dolphin passed by us. It was magical!
Share a local secret with us.
In the Mocagua community, they grow and fish nearly everything they eat, except for foods like grains, for example. The taste of the food is fresh and incomparable.
What does the Amazon taste like?
Like copoazú, the most delicious Amazonian fruit!
Is there any song that reminds you of this place?
Honestly, I didn’t feel like I needed to listen to music because the silence of the Amazon is wrapped in the sounds of the jungle, the water, and the birds. It’s the best music!
If you had to choose a favorite thing about the Amazon, what would it be?
The ceiba, the tree of life.
Is there anything in the Amazon that you haven’t seen anywhere else?
I saw many plants with textures I’ve never seen in any other ecosystem; Amazonian fruits, cacao trees (which do exist in other places, but I hadn’t seen them before).
Survivor’s tip: What to pack?
Mosquito repellent soap.
Is there anything everyone should know before arriving?
I think it’s important to keep in mind the respect for nature, Mother Earth, as well as visiting responsibly and without interfering in the daily life of the communities living in the Amazon. They have wisdom, and we should be open to learning from them and connecting, without prejudice.
What is beauty to you?
Beauty, for me, is culture, local richness, the stories of our ancestors, and the connection between humans and nature.
