BEHIND THE LENS
BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA BY DANIELA PALLONE
Tell us briefly about “Tango, alma y ciudad”.
On my last visit to Buenos Aires, I resumed a pending series: documenting some milongas (the traditional gatherings where tango is danced in community) and the city that surrounds them like a second dancer. Milongas are spaces where time seems to stand still; the dance is an improvisation that demands full attention and deep connection between partners. Among the worn tiles, the dim lighting, and the silences heavy with meaning, an almost meditative atmosphere is created.
What was the image that started it all?
It all began years ago, when I was living in the city and studying photojournalism. I had an analog camera, and one day I photographed a tanguera resting between “tandas” on a bench near my house. That photo was lost during moves, but it has always remained my point of reference.
What urban element could you not stop photographing?
The Obelisk, as the great icon of the city. Around it are the most traditional dance halls where, night after night, milongas take place that keep the porteño essence alive.
Is there a story that happened while you were photographing that you’ll never forget?
Yes, one night while I was photographing a milonga downtown, an older couple was dancing with such delicacy that it took my breath away. When the tanda ended, I approached them to thank them for the moment and discovered they had been dancing together for over 40 years. They told me that tango was their way of continuing to speak to each other without words. That phrase stayed with me.
What does Buenos Aires sound like when you close your eyes?
Although this series revolves around tango, when I close my eyes, Buenos Aires sounds like rock nacional and Argentine blues, the sip of mate, and the constant murmur of cafés that never sleep.
If Buenos Aires were a scent and a flavor, what would they be?
It would be the scent of freshly brewed coffee mixed with the smell of old books in a bookstore on Corrientes Street. And if it were a flavor, it would be that of a warm medialuna with dulce de leche, followed by the bitterness of the first sip of mate.
What place made you feel: “this could only happen in Buenos Aires”?
Anita and Mirko’s Wedding, a community theater play at the Circuito Cultural Barracas, made me feel that this could only happen in Buenos Aires. It feels like a real celebration: there’s food, toasts, live music, and lots of dancing. The audience doesn’t just watch — they become part of the family, sharing the table with the characters and joining in the festivities. It’s a unique, heartwarming neighborhood theatrical celebration, where art intertwines with the everyday life of the southern part of the city.
What souvenir would you carry in your suitcase to remind you of Buenos Aires, even from far away?
A copy of the old bronze key to the lock of the apartment in Palermo where I lived.
What was your first impression of the city? And a memory you hold dear?
My first impression of Buenos Aires was that everything seemed bigger than me: the endless avenues, the buildings creaking with history, the leaden sky that always seemed on the verge of saying something.
A memory I hold dear is an afternoon in Plaza Francia. There were musicians playing, kids running around, and I was sitting on the grass with friends, sharing cookies and unhurried laughter. The sun was setting slowly, golden, and in that moment, I felt like I belonged there.
A photo you didn’t manage to take and still dream of capturing?
I dream of having been able to photograph a legendary tango couple — the kind who would command the dance floor just by walking in. They’re no longer with us, but their presence is still alive in the milongas.
What might surprise a foreigner about Buenos Aires?
They might be surprised by how Buenos Aires blends chaos and beauty so effortlessly. Bookstores open late at night, milongas on the sidewalk on an ordinary Tuesday, and people who talk to you as if they’ve known you forever.
A local secret you’re willing to share with us?
The hidden bar beneath the Atlántico flower shop in Retiro.
What word or concept best defines this series for you?
Belonging. Because more than showcasing dances or places, this series is about finding a space where you feel part of something — where the city and tango intertwine to create a deep sense of connection.
Do you have a ritual when you arrive in Buenos Aires?
Yes, having a coffee in a classic café, sitting by the window, and watching the city wake up while I draw or write.
In search of local culture, where do you go?
I like to stop by historic cafés where you can feel literature and living history in the air.
You only have 48 hours in the city — what can’t be missed on the itinerary?
You can’t miss walking through Palermo, enjoying lunch at a neighborhood bodegón, visiting the San Telmo market, and ending the night with live music at the Torcuato Tasso Cultural Center..
Where can you see the best sunset?
At Costanera Sur, by the Río de la Plata, or from the balconies of the Palacio Barolo.
Where to stay, and what’s your favorite bar to end the day?
Palermo Soho or Recoleta, and my favorite bar is Rey de Copas in Palermo.
A simple and delicious lunch? A romantic dinner?
Fresh squid from Mar del Plata at “La Pescadorita.” For dinner, “El Preferido de Palermo” — homemade morcilla paired with a glass of house Bonarda, and for dessert, a zabaione ice cream to share.
Where to listen to tango?
On Fridays at La Viruta Tango Club.
A typical dish or drink you always recommend trying?
A traditional picada accompanied by a glass of very cold cider.
Is there a song that connects you to Buenos Aires?
“Cabildo y Juramento” by Conociendo Rusia. I actually lived at that intersection.
Your favorite porteño slang or word?
Quilombo, which means chaos or mess.
What is beauty to you?
Truth, originality, a sense of humor, and nature.